Horse Riding in the Alentejo

by 'Impi'

Three years ago my husband Mike and I bought a house in Benagil, near Lagoa on the Algarve. We spent the first year totally renovating the inside of the house and adding an extra bathroom and pool room…but that’s another story altogether!

My daughter Suzanne and I have been keen horse riders for many years and have ridden the area around Benagil and Silves on our recent trips to the Algarve. It really is amazing how much more of the countryside and wildlife you get to see from the back of a horse. As an extra treat this May, for Suzanne’s 21st birthday, we decided to fulfil a dream and ride the Western side of Portugal. Searching on the internet I found Caminhos do Alentejo, a riding centre near Vila Nova Milfontes. I asked whether they offered the kind of riding trip we were interested in and received a lovely e-mail from owner William Richards with all the information needed to whet our appetites at the prospect of two days riding the coastal Alentejo region.

William and Ilana Richards’ riding centre is nestled in a valley below the Cercal Ridge, an area of outstanding natural beauty that forms part of the largest nature reserve in Portugal. Consequently the views from the centre are stunning. Originally from the UK and Holland, William and Ilana are both very experienced riders. Their herd of 25 horses are the famous Lusitano breed; beautiful, sure-footed, intelligent horses. All are well-schooled and provide an ‘active’ ride with their agile and elevated movement.

We arrived at the hotel organised for us by William, Duna Parque, during the afternoon, following our easy 1 ¾ hour drive from Benagil via the motorway and the N120 to Vila Nova Milfontes. The drive took us through some very pretty countryside, which was far less populated than the towns and villages of the Algarve. The hotel provided us with a lovely twin bedroom apartment, beautifully decorated and furnished with a lounge, kitchen, bathroom and balcony overlooking the tennis courts and the pool and dunes beyond. A welcome note from William, complete with suggestions for dinner that evening, was waiting for us with a mention that he would be collecting us at 8.45 the next morning to take us to the centre for breakfast. After a walk to the estuary and a paddle in the clean, clear water of the river Mira, we made our way back to the hotel for dinner in their very comfortable restaurant. The food was excellent; fresh fish and vegetables beautifully cooked and served.

William arrived as promised at 8.45 the next morning to pick us up in his cream minibus. After introductions we were off to the farm, stopping in Milfontes to buy some fresh bread for breakfast. Sitting on the shaded terrace we enjoyed fresh fruit, cereal, yogurt, tea, coffee and fruit juice and chatted to William and Ilana about the horses and the ride to come. They like to be able to pair you up with a horse they think will be right for you, so we were taken down to the stables to meet Elana, a lovely Swiss girl who would be our guide for the day. She has been working at the centre after previously being a guest on one of the riding trips, and she introduced us to our horses for the day. Suzanne was paired with Carriça, a grey mare about 16hh, whilst I was given Belle, a 15.2hh bay mare. After all the necessary checks we mounted our horses in the sand school behind the clubhouse and after a few moments to get acquainted we were off on our first ride.

Elanatook us on sandy tracks, and through forests of cork and eucalyptus, keeping us entertained with tales of the horses and the local area. Halfway through the ride we were met by William, who had brought water for the horses and cool drinks of lemon for us riders. After making the horses comfortable, it was hard to believe we had already been riding for nearly two hours. Then it was on for the rest of our ride which took us over open pasture land, green valleys and through more eucalyptus trees. We enjoyed brisk trots and exciting canters, getting off to lead the horses when the terrain became hilly. Luckily the weather was a mixture of clouds and sunshine, with some lovely cooling breezes. Returning to the farm, we un tacked the horses, rubbed them down and fed them, and then walked to the veranda of the clubhouse for drinks, nibbles and a chat with William and Ilana about the wonderful views we had seen and the horses we had ridden.

Their enthusiasm for the riding centre was catching as they explained how the building work going on while we were there was going to create nine new guest rooms and accommodation for the Richards’. They told us about the Mira Atlantic trail, an eight-day program with six days’ riding of between three and a half and six hours each day over a wide variety of trails, allowing guests to enjoy the countryside and the horses to the full. The program also includes an opportunity each evening to swim in the centre’s pool and chat with the other guests, before dinner either at the centre or in one of the local restaurants. The centre also runs the Blue Coast trail, which again is an eight-day program with six days’ riding. This trail is designed for those who would like to spend more time with the horses, riding all day with just a stop for lunch. At the end of each day, the riders are brought back to the centre while the horses stay at local stables or out on the trail on ‘high lines’, which means that an extensive area of the parkland can be covered every day.

After our chat, we were taken back to our hotel for a quick rest before deciding to walk around Milfontes and to the cliff edge – a dramatic entrance to the clean river that the town of Milfontes sits by. We tried another of William’s recommended restaurants; the Duna Mill restaurant set in the sand dunes between the town and the sea. Again the food and service was excellent and provided a lovely finish to our first day of riding.

On the Thursday, we were again collected by William at 8.45am, stopping for bread and croissants on our way to breakfast on the terrace. Unfortunately the sky was dark with rain clouds so we thought we might be in for a wet ride. Portugal is at present suffering the worst drought in 15 years, as there had been no significant rainfall during the whole of January and February. The farmers have been hoping the rain will come, to allow the pastures to grow and to fill the barragems (reservoirs), so perhaps a wet day wouldn’t have been such a bad thing.

That day we were going to be riding out with Ilana on a pretty dapple grey, Arab cross Lusitano mare called Fiesta. Suzanne was riding Max, a powerful 17hh black gelding, and I had a lovely chestnut mare called Breda. We started out in a different direction from the day before, heading towards the hills, the huge eucalyptus forests and the lush green valleys grazed by large brown cattle with bells around their necks. The horses were willing and we enjoyed canters through the forests and lovely walks through the valleys. William met us for our halfway stop with buckets of water ready for the horses, but they had other ideas as the grass was so tempting that it was noses down for a good feed while we enjoyed our drinks.

We had been lucky so far with the weather on this trip; although it had threatened to rain a few times we only had a light shower before the sun came out and warmed us and the horses. After our break we carried on riding through forests and valleys and up hills where the views were breathtaking. After a good two hours we made it back to the farm and made sure the horses were fed and watered before we walked up to the terrace, and the drinks awaiting us there. Watching the horses grazing and resting in the paddocks and with the dogs playing at our feet, we talked to William and Ilana about our lovely time with them.

This is a riding experience for those who can ride comfortably at a walk, trot and fast canter, and for those who ride regularly. Between three and six hours in the saddle each day definitely wouldn’t suit someone who was used to just the occasional ride! William runs a transfer service to and from Lisbon Airport if needed on the first and last day of the ride, but a hire car would be an asset if you wanted to explore the area or if you were traveling from Faro airport. William can also arrange car hire if necessary.

We only did a mini two-day break during an otherwise ride-free week at the centre, but we would love to go back and join one o the rides for a full eight days – six days of riding. So, William and Ilana, if you’re reading this – we’ll be back and thank you for a wonderful experience!